We very gladly accepted the offer, and set off the next morning, about 7 O’clock, our Company consisting of Mr and Mrs Hurrel, Mr Phips,3 a Boatswain, another sailor, Mr Hurrel’s servant and ourselves.

Mr Hurrel is quite a Poet’s Priest. He is fat as Falstaff, unable to use exercise and Eke unwilling; his love of ease is surpassed by nothing – but his love of good living, which equals whatever detraction has hitherto devised for a Parson’s Gluttony.

Mrs Hurrel is an obliging, civil, tiresome Woman.

Our Plan was, to see the Fleet, and if possible, a man of War’s inside, – and then to land on one of the safest and pleasantest Rocks, to Dine, as Mr Hurrel had taken special care of this particular.

But when we came near the ships, the sea grew rough, and having no invitation, we were obliged to give up the thought of entering any of them. There were 7 men of War in the Bay, and we sailed round them. – They are most noble Vessels. I had reason to think myself very fortunate that I was not sea sick, though I never before was on the ocean. We put in at Brixham, a most excellent fishing Town, but very dirty and disagreeable. We made but a short stay, and set sail again. Brixham is about 10 miles from Ting Mouth by sea.

The Wind was against us – and we were hardly out of the Harbour, before we found the sea terribly rough – I own I was not very easy, as our Boat, though a large one for the Thames, was very small for the sea: but still, I considered myself as the Person of the least Consequence, whatever our danger.

However, it was no sport to me to be Danced up and down, and to find the Waves higher and rougher every instant: especially when I saw Mr Hurrel, who had hitherto guided us, quit the Helm to the Boatswain, and exclaim ‘We shall run foul of these Rocks!’ –

The Waves foamed in little white mountains, rising above the Green surface of the sea – they dashed against the Rocks off the Coast of Brixham with monstrous fury – and really to own the truth, I felt no inclination to be Boat Wrecked, however pathetic and moving a Tale our Adventure might have made.

Mrs Hurrel grasped my hand, and looked very much frightened: her agreeable Husband repeated several Times his most comfortable Exclammation of ‘We shall run foul of the Rocks! –’ There followed a most terrible confusion – I don’t remember, or understand, sea phrases, but the hurrying, loud, violent manner in which they gave orders to one another was really frightful. ‘Is there any danger, cried Mrs Hurrel, pray Boatswain, tell me, is there any danger?’ ‘No – I don’t think there is, Ma’am.’

This was the most alarming sound I had heard yet – I don’t think there is! – however, I found we were all in equal danger, for the two sailors assured us their swimming would be totally useless, as the fury of the Waves would presently swallow them up.

Mrs Hurrel grasped my Hand harder than ever – her Husband forgot his Cloth, and began to swear, but always adding ‘God forgive me!’ – at length, after being tost up and down in a most terrible manner for about a ¼ of an Hour, the Boatswain said we should not reach Ting Mouth before mid night. – And just then, the Waves seemed to redouble their violence, and the Boat scooped one fairly over us.

I gave up the Ghost: – Mrs Hurrel burst into Tears – and cried vehemently, ‘for mercy’s sake – Mr Hurrel, pray let us go back to Brixham – pray do – we shall be all Drowned! O pray don’t let me be Drowned! – Set me down! Set me down!’

‘But where are we to Dine?’ cried he.

‘O, any where, Mr Hurrel, – any where, so as we do but get a shore! – I don’t mind, I assure ee.’

‘O, that’s pretty talking – answered he, but that won’t serve for a meal. –’

However, I believe he also had no objection to prolong his Days for when the Boatswain said that it blew fresher higher up, he immediately ordered that we should tack about: – and so we returned to Brixham! When we Landed, I was so very giddy, that I could hardly stand – and was obliged to go into the first House, for a Glass of Water: but I am only amazed that I was not dreadfully sea sick.

Saturday morning [31 July], Mrs Rishton and I walked out early to avoid a very disagreeable scene at Home: for the Day before, Mr Rishton came Home in a great haste, and perturbation; and, calling his Wife, told her that he had broke Romeo’s Leg! – this was occasioned by the poor Dog’s running after sheep, for which he has often been, in vain, very severely beat: but now, he and one of the spaniels got a poor sheep quite down, and began to tear her to Pieces: Mr R. rode up to them, and catching Romeo first, by the Leg, to prevent his biting, began to flog him violently, till he found that by the Twist, he had broke his Leg short off. – He was beyond measure concerned, and gave a man a Crown to carry him Home gently in his Arms: and the next morning he had a surgeon to set the poor animal’s Leg,

[Friday, 6 August]

The Cricket match was hardly over, before the Ting Mouth Games began. All that was to be done this second Day, was Wrestling, a most barbarous Diversion, and which I could not look on, and would not have gone to, if I had not feared being thought affected.

A Ring was formed for the Combattants by a Rope railing from which we stood to see the sport. The Wrestler was to Conquer twice, one opponent immediately after another, to entitle himself to the Prize.

A strong labouring man came off Victorious in the first Battle: but, while his shins were yet bleeding, he was obliged to attack another; the Hat (their Gauntlet) was thrown by a servant of Mr Colbourn’s.4 He was reckoned by the Judges an admirable Wrestler; and he very fairly beat his Adversary: A sailor directly flung his Hat: he was sworn friend of the defeated Labourer: he Entered the Lists in a Passion, and attacked the servant, as all the Gentlemen said, very unfairly: and, while a short Truce was declared for the man to have his shoe unbuckled, he very dishonourably hit him a Violent Blow: upon this, they both prepared for a Boxing match – and were upon the Point of Engaging, (though the whole Ring cried out shame upon the sailor) when Mr Rishton, inflamed with a generous rage at this foul Play, rushed precipitately into the Ring, and getting between the Combattants, Collored the sailor, declaring he should be turned out of the Lists.

I am really amazed that he Escaped being ill treated, – but at the same Instant, two of the young Mills5 ran into the Ring, and catching hold of Mr Rishton, insisted on his not venturing himself against the brutality of the enraged sailor: however, he would not retire, till the sailor was Voted out of the Lists, as a foul Player. Mr Rishton then returned to us, between the Mr Mills. Every body seemed in admiration of the spirit which he exerted on this occasion.

*

We all went on Monday Evening [16 August] to the sea shore, to see the scene Drawn: this is a most curious Work: and all done by Women.6 They have a very long Net, so considerable as to Cost them 13 or 16 pounds – this they first draw into a Boat, which they go off the shore in, and Row in a kind of semi Circle, till they Land at some distance: all the way, they spread this Net, one side of which is kept above Water by Corks. Then they Land, and divide Forces; half of them return to the beginning of the Net, and half remain at the End: and then, with amazing strength, they both divisions, at the same Time, pull the Net in, by the two Ends: whatever Fish they catch, are always encircled in the middle of the Net, which comes out of the Water the last; and, as they draw towards each other, they all join in getting their prey: when once they perceive that there is Fish in their Nets, they set up a loud shout, and make an almost unintelligible Noise, in expressing their joy, and in disputing at the same Time upon their shares, and on what Fish Escaped them. They are all robust and well made, and have remarkably beautiful Teeth: and some of them are really very fine Women: their Dress is barbarous: they have stays half Laced, and some thing by way of Handkerchiefs about their Necks, they wear a single colored Flannel, or stuff petticoat; – no shoes or stockings; notwithstanding the hard Pebbles and stones all along the Beach: – and their Coat is Pin’d up in the shape of a pair of trousers, leaving them wholly Naked to the knee.

Mr Western7 declares he could not have imagined such a Race of Females existed in a Civilized Country – and had he come hither by sea, he should have almost fancied he had been Cast on a new discovered Coast. They caught, this Evening, at one Time 9 large salmon, a John Dory, and a Gurnet: on Tuesday Evening, we went again, and saw them Catch 4 dozen of mackeral at a Haul.

Sunday, [29] August

This morning all the World was at Church, as the Dean of Exeter Preached. He gave us an excellent Discourse, which he delivered extremely well. We met all the Family as we came out, and Mr T. Mills joined our party: the morning was lovely, and we took a very pleasant Walk. Mr Rishton proposes going to Ivy Bridge or Staverton in a short Time, for a few Days, in order to Fish: Mr T. Mills invited himself to be of our Party.

We had again the pleasure to hear the Dean in the Afternoon, who gave us a most admirable sermon on moral Duties. The singing here is the most extraordinary I ever heard, – there is no Instrument, but the People attempt to sing in Parts – with such Voices! such expression and such Composition! They to Day, in honour, I presume, of the Dean, performed an Anthem. It was really too much to be borne decently – it was set by a Weaver, – and so very unlike any thing that was ever before imagined, so truly barbarous, that, with the addition of the singers trilling and squalling, – no Comedy could have afforded more Diversion: Mrs Rishton and I Laughed ourselves sick – though we very much endeavoured to be grave – Mr Rishton was quite offended, and told his Wife that the Eyes of the whole Congregation were on her – but nothing could restrain us, till the Dean began his prayer – and there is a something commanding in his Voice, that immediately gained all our Attention.

Sunday, [5] September

This morning we heard Mr Onslow8 preach. He says he always Travels with a Brace of sermons, that he may be ready to give occasional assistance to his Brother Clergymen, when requested. I did not at all admire him, as he seems to be conceited; and, indeed, the Dean has at present made me difficult.

After service, the two youngest Mills, and Mr Onslow Called in, to settle their next shooting party with Mr Rishton. It is amazing what a laborious business this shooting is: they go out before Breakfast, – after two or 3 Hours shooting, they get what they can at any Farm House – then toil till 3 or 4 o’Clock, when sometimes they return Home, but if they have any prospect of more sport, they take pot luck at some Cottage, and stay out till 8 or 9 o’Clock.