Around these fjords rose tall cliffs, tree covered for
the most part, among which appeared little fishing villages or hamlets, but most often there was a small, isolated dwelling, home to aboriginal
people who lived by hunting and fishing. As the Football went by, they
came out to sell their products, which found ready buyers.
Away off beyond the cliffs, mountains reared their snow-capped peaks
through the mist, while on the Queen Charlotte Islands nothing could be
seen but long plains and thick forests covered with hoarfrost. Here and
there the occasional small cluster of huts could be seen at the edge of a
narrow inlet, where fishing boats waited for a favorable wind.
After passing the northern tip of the Queen Charlotte Islands, the
Football was again exposed to the open sea as it crossed Dixon Entrance,
bounded on the north by Prince of Wales Island. The crossing took
twenty-four hours, but since the wind had shifted around to the northeast and was now coming off the mainland, the pitching and rolling
were less violent. Once it reached Prince of Wales Island, the ship would
always be protected by a chain of islands and by the Sitka peninsula until
it entered port at Skagway. They were now sailing on a river, as it were,
rather than on the sea.
The name "Prince of Wales" applies to a whole complicated archipelago whose most northerly points are lost in a jumble of tiny islands.
The capital of the main island is Shakan on the west coast, where ships
can take refuge from the storms of the open sea.
Farther on lies Baranof Island, where the Russians built the fort of
New Arkhangel, and whose principal town, Sitka, is also the capital of
the whole territory of Alaska. When Alaska was sold by the Muscovite
Empire to the United States, Sitka was not given back to Canada or to
British Columbia, but remained in American hands.
The first Canadian port that the Football passed was Port Simpson, on
the coast of British Columbia at the end of Dixon Entrance, but it did not
stop there nor at the port of Jackson on the southernmost island of the
Prince of Wales group.
While the forty-ninth parallel forms the boundary between Canada
and the United States a little south of Vancouver, the longitude separating Alaska from Canada will have to be clearly drawn across the gold bearing territories of the north. Who can tell whether, in some more or
less distant future, there may not be grounds for dispute between the
flag of Great Britain and the fifty-one-star flag of the United States of
America?'
On the morning of April 24 the Football docked at the port of Wrangell,
at the mouth of the Stikine River. At that time, the town consisted of
only about forty houses, a few active sawmills, a hotel, a casino, and some
gambling houses that kept very busy during the season.
At Wrangell they parted company with the miners who wanted to go
to the Klondike via Telegraph Creek rather than by crossing the lakes
on the other side of Skagway. They would have some 170 miles to cover
under the most difficult conditions, although the cost would be lower.
About fifty immigrants left the ship, determined to face danger and exhaustion crossing the endless plains of northern British Columbia
After they left Wrangell the channels became narrower and more
winding. The vessel slipped through a veritable labyrinth of little islands.
A Dutchman might have thought he was in the middle of the maze of
Zeeland, but he would soon have returned to harsh reality on feeling the
bitter arctic wind whistling around him, seeing the whole archipelago
buried under a thick layer of snow, and hearing the roar of avalanches
thundering down into the fjords from the height of the coastal cliffs. A
Russian would have found the situation quite normal because he would
have been at the same latitude as St. Petersburg.
It was just off Mary's Island, near Fort Simpson, that the Football left
behind the last American customs office. At Wrangell, the ship was once
again in Canadian waters,7 and although a number of passengers had
disembarked to continue their journey by land, they had been warned
that the route was not yet negotiable by sled.
The steamboat, meanwhile, pressed on toward Skagway through increasingly narrow channels, following the coast of the rugged mainland.
After passing the mouth of the Taku River, it stopped for several hours
at Juneau, which was still only a village on the way to becoming a town.
To the name of Joe Juneau, who founded it about 1882, must be added that of Richard Harris. Two years earlier, they had discovered the gold
deposits of Silver Bow Basin, which yielded twelve million dollars in
nuggets a few months later.
That period saw the first influx of miners attracted by reports of this
discovery and of the work going on in the gold fields to the north of
Telegraph Creek, before the Klondike gold rush began. Since that day,
the Treadwille Mine, with 240 pestles at work, has crushed up to 1500
tons of quartz every twenty-four hours, yielding over five hundred thousand dollars' worth of gold. A hundred years of mining would still not
exhaust its supply.
When Ben Raddle told him about the good luck miners were having in that region, Summy Skim replied, "It's too bad our uncle's claim
wasn't on the Taku River instead of on the Fortymile."
"Why is that?"
"Because then we wouldn't have to go all the way to Skagway."
If it had only been a matter of getting to Skagway, of course, there
would have been nothing to complain about. The Football would be there
the next day. But their real difficulties and extreme hardships would
begin then, when they would have to go through the Chilkoot Pass and
make their way across the lakes to the left bank of the Yukon River.
And yet there they all were, those passengers, eager to be off the
Football and to venture out into the region drained by the great Alaskan
waterway. If they were thinking only about the future, it was not of its
exertions, trials, dangers, and disappointments, but of the mirage that it
held out before them.
Leaving Juneau behind, the steamer made its way up the Lynn Canal
to Skagway, which is the end of the line for ships of a certain tonnage,
although flat-bottomed boats can continue for another five miles to the
village of Dyea. Off to the northwest was the shining Muir Glacier, 240
feet thick, whose thundering avalanches kept falling into the Pacific. A
few boats manned by natives provided an escort for the Football, which
took some of them in tow.
During the last night on board, the card room was the scene of a tre mendous game, during which some of the passengers who had been
regular patrons during the voyage would lose everything, down to their
last dollar. Not surprisingly, the two Texans, Hunter and Malone, were
among the most avid of the players and especially the most violent. The
others, whatever their nationality, were no better. They belonged to
the same class of scoundrels as are usually to be found in the bars of
Vancouver, Wrangell, Skagway, and Dawson City.
Up until now, it seemed, fortune had smiled on the two Texans. Since
they had embarked on the Football in the port of Acapulco, their good
luck at cards had brought them several thousands of piasters, or dollars.
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