The
horses of the first team had to be dragged upon the scow, and
once on, they reared and plunged.
When we started, four men pulled the rope, and Emmett sat in the
stern, with the tackle guys in hand. As the current hit us, he
let out the guys, which maneuver caused the boat to swing stern
downstream. When it pointed obliquely, he made fast the guys
again. I saw that this served two purposes: the current struck,
slid alongside, and over the stern, which mitigated the danger,
and at the same time helped the boat across.
To look at the river was to court terror, but I had to look. It
was an infernal thing. It roared in hollow, sullen voice, as a
monster growling. It had voice, this river, and one strangely
changeful. It moaned as if in pain–it whined, it cried. Then at
times it would seem strangely silent. The current as complex and
mutable as human life. It boiled, beat and bulged. The bulge
itself was an incompressible thing, like a roaring lift of the
waters from submarine explosion. Then it would smooth out, and
run like oil. It shifted from one channel to another, rushed to
the center of the river, then swung close to one shore or the
other. Again it swelled near the boat, in great, boiling, hissing
eddies.
“Look! See where it breaks through the mountain!” yelled Jones in
my ear.
I looked upstream to see the stupendous granite walls separated
in a gigantic split that must have been made by a terrible
seismic disturbance; and from this gap poured the dark, turgid,
mystic flood.
I was in a cold sweat when we touched shore, and I jumped long
before the boat was properly moored.
Emmett was wet to the waist where the water had surged over him.
As he sat rearranging some tackle I remarked to him that of
course he must be a splendid swimmer, or he would not take such
risks.
“No, I can’t swim a stroke,” he replied; “and it wouldn’t be any
use if I could. Once in there a man’s a goner.”
“You’ve had bad accidents here?” I questioned.
“No, not bad. We only drowned two men last year. You see, we had
to tow the boat up the river, and row across, as then we hadn’t
the wire. Just above, on this side, the boat hit a stone, and the
current washed over her, taking off the team and two men.”
“Didn’t you attempt to rescue them?” I asked, after waiting a
moment.
“No use. They never came up.”
“Isn’t the river high now?” I continued, shuddering as I glanced
out at the whirling logs and drifts.
“High, and coming up. If I don’t get the other teams over to-day
I’ll wait until she goes down. At this season she rises and
lowers every day or so, until June then comes the big flood, and
we don’t cross for months.”
I sat for three hours watching Emmett bring over the rest of his
party, which he did without accident, but at the expense of great
effort. And all the time in my ears dinned the roar, the boom,
the rumble of this singularly rapacious and purposeful river–a
river of silt, a red river of dark, sinister meaning, a river
with terrible work to perform, a river which never gave up its
dead.
The Last of the Plainsmen
CHAPTER 2. THE RANGE
After a much-needed rest at Emmett’s, we bade good-by to him and
his hospitable family, and under the guidance of his man once
more took to the wind-swept trail. We pursued a southwesterly
course now, following the lead of the craggy red wall that
stretched on and on for hundreds of miles into Utah. The desert,
smoky and hot, fell away to the left, and in the foreground a
dark, irregular line marked the Grand Canyon cutting through the
plateau.
The wind whipped in from the vast, open expanse, and meeting an
obstacle in the red wall, turned north and raced past us. Jones’s
hat blew off, stood on its rim, and rolled. It kept on rolling,
thirty miles an hour, more or less; so fast, at least, that we
were a long time catching up to it with a team of horses.
Possibly we never would have caught it had not a stone checked
its flight. Further manifestation of the power of the desert wind
surrounded us on all sides. It had hollowed out huge stones from
the cliffs, and tumbled them to the plain below; and then,
sweeping sand and gravel low across the desert floor, had cut
them deeply, until they rested on slender pedestals, thus
sculptoring grotesque and striking monuments to the marvelous
persistence of this element of nature.
Late that afternoon, as we reached the height of the plateau,
Jones woke up and shouted: “Ha! there’s Buckskin!”
Far southward lay a long, black mountain, covered with patches of
shining snow.
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