by N.,
and S. W. by S., and these natural vanes must indicate the prevailing
direction of the force of the trade-wind. The travelling had made so
little impression on the barren soil, that we here missed our track,
and took that to Fuentes. This we did not find out till we arrived
there; and we were afterwards glad of our mistake. Fuentes is a pretty
village, with a small stream; and everything appeared to prosper well,
excepting, indeed, that which ought to do so most—its inhabitants. The
black children, completely naked, and looking very wretched, were
carrying bundles of firewood half as big as their own bodies.
Near Fuentes we saw a large flock of guinea-fowl—probably fifty or
sixty in number. They were extremely wary, and could not be
approached. They avoided us, like partridges on a rainy day in
September, running with their heads cocked up; and if pursued, they
readily took to the wing.
The scenery of St. Domingo possesses a beauty totally unexpected, from
the prevalent gloomy character of the rest of the island. The village
is situated at the bottom of a valley, bounded by lofty and jagged
walls of stratified lava. The black rocks afford a most striking
contrast with the bright green vegetation, which follows the banks of a
little stream of clear water. It happened to be a grand feast-day, and
the village was full of people. On our return we overtook a party of
about twenty young black girls, dressed in excellent taste; their black
skins and snow-white linen being set off by coloured turbans and large
shawls. As soon as we approached near, they suddenly all turned round,
and covering the path with their shawls, sung with great energy a wild
song, beating time with their hands upon their legs. We threw them some
vintems, which were received with screams of laughter, and we left them
redoubling the noise of their song.
One morning the view was singularly clear; the distant mountains being
projected with the sharpest outline on a heavy bank of dark blue
clouds. Judging from the appearance, and from similar cases in
England, I supposed that the air was saturated with moisture. The
fact, however, turned out quite the contrary. The hygrometer gave a
difference of 29.6 degs., between the temperature of the air, and the
point at which dew was precipitated. This difference was nearly double
that which I had observed on the previous mornings. This unusual
degree of atmospheric dryness was accompanied by continual flashes of
lightning. Is it not an uncommon case, thus to find a remarkable
degree of aerial transparency with such a state of weather?
Generally the atmosphere is hazy; and this is caused by the falling of
impalpably fine dust, which was found to have slightly injured the
astronomical instruments. The morning before we anchored at Porto
Praya, I collected a little packet of this brown-coloured fine dust,
which appeared to have been filtered from the wind by the gauze of the
vane at the mast-head. Mr. Lyell has also given me four packets of
dust which fell on a vessel a few hundred miles northward of these
islands. Professor Ehrenberg [3] finds that this dust consists in
great part of infusoria with siliceous shields, and of the siliceous
tissue of plants. In five little packets which I sent him, he has
ascertained no less than sixty-seven different organic forms! The
infusoria, with the exception of two marine species, are all
inhabitants of fresh-water. I have found no less than fifteen
different accounts of dust having fallen on vessels when far out in the
Atlantic. From the direction of the wind whenever it has fallen, and
from its having always fallen during those months when the harmattan is
known to raise clouds of dust high into the atmosphere, we may feel
sure that it all comes from Africa. It is, however, a very singular
fact, that, although Professor Ehrenberg knows many species of
infusoria peculiar to Africa, he finds none of these in the dust which
I sent him.
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