It was amusing to watch how
quickly a large and active crab (Graspus), which inhabits the crevices
of the rock, stole the fish from the side of the nest, as soon as we
had disturbed the parent birds. Sir W. Symonds, one of the few persons
who have landed here, informs me that he saw the crabs dragging even
the young birds out of their nests, and devouring them. Not a single
plant, not even a lichen, grows on this islet; yet it is inhabited by
several insects and spiders. The following list completes, I believe,
the terrestrial fauna: a fly (Olfersia) living on the booby, and a tick
which must have come here as a parasite on the birds; a small brown
moth, belonging to a genus that feeds on feathers; a beetle (Quedius)
and a woodlouse from beneath the dung; and lastly, numerous spiders,
which I suppose prey on these small attendants and scavengers of the
water-fowl. The often repeated description of the stately palm and
other noble tropical plants, then birds, and lastly man, taking
possession of the coral islets as soon as formed, in the Pacific, is
probably not correct; I fear it destroys the poetry of this story, that
feather and dirt-feeding and parasitic insects and spiders should be
the first inhabitants of newly formed oceanic land.
The smallest rock in the tropical seas, by giving a foundation for the
growth of innumerable kinds of sea-weed and compound animals, supports
likewise a large number of fish. The sharks and the seamen in the boats
maintained a constant struggle which should secure the greater share of
the prey caught by the fishing-lines. I have heard that a rock near
the Bermudas, lying many miles out at sea, and at a considerable depth,
was first discovered by the circumstance of fish having been observed
in the neighbourhood.
FERNANDO NORONHA, Feb. 20th.—As far as I was enabled to observe,
during the few hours we stayed at this place, the constitution of the
island is volcanic, but probably not of a recent date. The most
remarkable feature is a conical hill, about one thousand feet high, the
upper part of which is exceedingly steep, and on one side overhangs its
base. The rock is phonolite, and is divided into irregular columns. On
viewing one of these isolated masses, at first one is inclined to
believe that it has been suddenly pushed up in a semi-fluid state. At
St. Helena, however, I ascertained that some pinnacles, of a nearly
similar figure and constitution, had been formed by the injection of
melted rock into yielding strata, which thus had formed the moulds for
these gigantic obelisks. The whole island is covered with wood; but
from the dryness of the climate there is no appearance of luxuriance.
Half-way up the mountain, some great masses of the columnar rock,
shaded by laurel-like trees, and ornamented by others covered with fine
pink flowers but without a single leaf, gave a pleasing effect to the
nearer parts of the scenery.
BAHIA, OR SAN SALVADOR. BRAZIL, Feb. 29th.—The day has passed
delightfully. Delight itself, however, is a weak term to express the
feelings of a naturalist who, for the first time, has wandered by
himself in a Brazilian forest. The elegance of the grasses, the
novelty of the parasitical plants, the beauty of the flowers, the
glossy green of the foliage, but above all the general luxuriance of
the vegetation, filled me with admiration. A most paradoxical mixture
of sound and silence pervades the shady parts of the wood. The noise
from the insects is so loud, that it may be heard even in a vessel
anchored several hundred yards from the shore; yet within the recesses
of the forest a universal silence appears to reign. To a person fond
of natural history, such a day as this brings with it a deeper pleasure
than he can ever hope to experience again. After wandering about for
some hours, I returned to the landing-place; but, before reaching it, I
was overtaken by a tropical storm. I tried to find shelter under a
tree, which was so thick that it would never have been penetrated by
common English rain; but here, in a couple of minutes, a little torrent
flowed down the trunk. It is to this violence of the rain that we must
attribute the verdure at the bottom of the thickest woods: if the
showers were like those of a colder climate, the greater part would be
absorbed or evaporated before it reached the ground. I will not at
present attempt to describe the gaudy scenery of this noble bay,
because, in our homeward voyage, we called here a second time, and I
shall then have occasion to remark on it.
Along the whole coast of Brazil, for a length of at least 2000 miles,
and certainly for a considerable space inland, wherever solid rock
occurs, it belongs to a granitic formation. The circumstance of this
enormous area being constituted of materials which most geologists
believe to have been crystallized when heated under pressure, gives
rise to many curious reflections. Was this effect produced beneath the
depths of a profound ocean? or did a covering of strata formerly extend
over it, which has since been removed? Can we believe that any power,
acting for a time short of infinity, could have denuded the granite
over so many thousand square leagues?
On a point not far from the city, where a rivulet entered the sea, I
observed a fact connected with a subject discussed by Humboldt. [7] At
the cataracts of the great rivers Orinoco, Nile, and Congo, the
syenitic rocks are coated by a black substance, appearing as if they
had been polished with plumbago. The layer is of extreme thinness; and
on analysis by Berzelius it was found to consist of the oxides of
manganese and iron.
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