He became very clever at this work--some
old, sharp, buried talent for shrewd trading that had come to him
from his mountain blood now aided him. He could get the finest,
freshest meats and vegetables at the lowest prices. The circus people
were tough and hard, they always had a fierce and ravenous hun ger,
they would not accept bad food and cooking, they fed stupen dously,
and they always had the best of everything.
Usually
the circus would arrive at a new town very early in the morning,
before daybreak. He would go into town immediately: he would go to
the markets, or with farmers who had come in for the circus. He felt
and saw the purity of first light, he heard the sweet and sudden
lutings of first birds, and suddenly he was filled with the earth and
morning in new towns, among new men. He walked among the farmers'
wagons, and he dealt with them on the spot for the prodigal plenty of
their wares--the country melons bedded in sweet hay, the cool, sweet
pounds of butter wrapped in clean, wet cloths, with dew and starlight
still upon them, the enormous battered cans foaming with fresh milk,
the new-laid eggs which he bought by the gross and hundred dozen, the
tender, limey pullets by the score, the delicate bunches of green
scallions, the heavy red ripeness of huge tomatoes, the sweet-leaved
lettuces, crisp as celery, the fresh-podded peas and the succulent
young beans, as well as the potatoes spotted with the loamy earth,
the winy apples, the peaches, and the cherries, the juicy corn
stacked up in shocks of luring green, and the heavy, blackened rinds
of the home-cured hams and bacons.
As
the markets opened, he would begin to trade and dicker with the
butchers for their finest cuts of meat. They would hold great roasts
up in their gouted fingers, they would roll up tubs of fresh-ground
sausage, they would smack with their long palms the flanks of beeves
and porks.
He would drive back to the
circus with a wagon full of meat and vegetables.
At
the circus ground the people were already in full activity. He could
hear the wonderful timed tattoo of sledges on the driven stakes, the
shouts of men riding animals down to water, the slow clank and pull
of mighty horses, the heavy rumble of the wagons as they rolled down
off the circus flat cars. By now the eating tent would be erected,
and, as he arrived, he could see the cooks already busy at their
ranges, the long tables set up underneath the canvas with their rows
of benches, their tin plates and cups. There would be the amber
pungency of strong coffee, and the smell of buckwheat batter.
Then the circus people would come in for
breakfast. The food they ate was as masculine and fragrant as the
world they dwelt in. It be longed to the warmed, stained world of
canvas, the clean and healthful odor of the animals, and the wild,
sweet, lyric nature of the land on which they lived as wanderers. And
it was there for the asking with a fabulous and stupefying plenty,
golden and embrowned. They ate stacks of buckwheat cakes, smoking
hot, soaked in hunks of yellow butter, which they carved at will with
a wide, free gesture from the piled prints on the table, and which
they garnished with ropes of heavy black molasses, or with maple
syrup. They ate big steaks for breakfast, hot from the pan and thick
with onions; they ate whole melons, crammed with the ripeness of the
deep-pink meat, rashers of bacon, and great platters of fried eggs,
or eggs scrambled with calves brains. They helped themselves from
pyramids of fruit piled up at intervals on the table--plums, peaches,
apples, cherries, grapes, oranges, and bananas.
They
had great pitchers of thick cream to pour on everything, and they
washed their hunger down with pint mugs of strong, deep-savored
coffee.
For their midday meal they
would eat fiercely, hungrily, with wolfish gusto, mightily with knit
brows and convulsive movements of their corded throats. They would
eat great roasts of beef with crackled hides, browned in their
juices, rare and tender; hot chunks of delicate pork with hems of
fragrant fat; delicate young broiled chickens; twelve pound pot
roasts, cooked for hours in an iron pot with new carrots, onions,
sprouts, and young potatoes; together with every vegetable that the
season yielded--huge roasting ears of corn, smoking hot, piled like
cordwood on two-foot platters, tomatoes cut in slabs with wedges of
okra and succotash, and raw onions, mashed potatoes whipped to a
creamy batter, turnips, fresh peas cooked in butter, and fat, strong
beans seasoned with the flavor of big chunks of pork. In addition
they had every fruit that the place and time afforded: hot crusty
apple, peach, and cherry pies, encrusted with cinnamon; puddings and
cakes of every sort; and blobbering cobblers inches deep.
Thus the circus moved across America, from
town to town, from state to state, eating its way from Maine into the
great plains of the West, eating its way along the Hudson and the
Mississippi Rivers, eating its way across the prairies and from the
North into the South.
Abroad in this
ocean of earth and vision, the boy thought of his father's land, of
its great red barns, its clear familiarity and its haunting
strangeness, and its lovely and tragic beauty. He thought of its
smell of harbors and its rumors of the sea, the city, and the ships,
its wine ripe apples and its brown-red soil, its snug, weathered
houses, its lyric, unutterable ecstasy.
A
wonderful thing happened. One morning he awoke suddenly to find
himself staring straight up at the pulsing splendor of the stars.
At first he did not know where he was. The
circus train had stopped in the heart of the country, for what reason
he did not know. He could hear the languid and intermittent breathing
of the engine, the strangeness of men's voices in the dark, the
casual stamp of the horses in their cars, and all around him the
attentive and vital silence of the earth.
Suddenly
he raised himself from the pile of canvas on which he slept.
It was the moment just before dawn: against
the east the sky had al ready begun to whiten with the first faint
luminosity of day, the invading tides of light crept up the sky,
drowning the stars out as they went. The train had halted by a little
river, which ran swift and deep close to the tracks, and now he knew
that what at first he thought had been the sound of silence was the
swift and ceaseless music of the river.
There
had been rain the night before, and now the river was filled with the
sweet, clean smell of earthy deposits. He could see the delicate
white glimmer of young birch trees leaning from the banks, and on the
other side he saw the winding whiteness of a road. Beyond the road,
and bordering it, there was an orchard with a wall of lichened stone.
As the wan light grew, the earth and all its
contours emerged sharply.
He saw the
worn and ancient design of lichened rocks, the fertile soil of the
ploughed fields; he saw the kept order, the frugal cleanliness, with
its mild tang of opulent greenery. Here was an earth with fences as
big as a man's heart, but not so great as his desire, and this earth
was like a room he once had lived in. He returned to it as a sailor
to a small, closed harbor, as a man, spent with the hunger of his
wandering, comes home.
Instantly he
recognized the scene. He knew he had come at last into his father's
land. Here was his home, brought back to him while he slept, like a
forgotten dream. Here was his heart's desire, his father's country,
the earth his spirit dwelt in.
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