Herald”
Absyle used for descending rock face. This bush-made grass rope is 3 strand 3 lay of about 2 inches diameter. Breaking strain approx. 400 lbs.
The ‘Absyle’ is used for rock work, generally for descending, though it can be used on some faces for ascent.
In the ‘Absyle’ the body is upright, but the legs are stretched out, and the feet pressed against the rock face.
The rope passes down between the thighs, around one thigh and diagonally up and across the upper half of the body and over the shoulder opposite to the leg under which it passes. The rope may be gripped with one hand.
In descending, the free hand pulls the rope over the shoulder. This leaves a loop below the thigh, and the feet are walking’ down the rock face until the thigh is again impossible to fall.
In ascending a rock face which has an extreme slope but is not vertical, the feet are ‘walked’ up the rock face, the body is pulled up the rope, and the slack, hanging below the legs, is pulled up with one hand and fed over the shoulder. By this means the climber can ‘sit’ on the rope and rest. When using the ‘Absyle’ it will be found that bare feet, sandshoes or spiked shoes give a better grip on the rock face than plain leather soles.
TYING SPLIT CANES AND VINES TOGETHER
These materials will only tie with special knots and it is a safe rule to tie with the outside of the skin on the outside bend of the knot, as in A. If you try to tie with the inside of the material on the outer surface of the bend (as in B), it is probable that the material will either crack or snap off, and you may reject it as useless. The knots which are most suitable for tying these canes and vines are:
Joining knots: Sheet bend, Reef knot, and fisherman
Securing knots: Timber hitch.
When pulling the knot taut, do so gently. If you snap the joining knot the material may either cut itself or break. If the canes or vines are brittle through greenness try heat treatment.
USES FOR BUSH-MADE ROPES
There are many occasions when bush-made ropes can be extremely useful ... for climbing or descending a short cliff face; for climbing a tree; for a rope bridge; for a safety-line across a fast or flooded river.
SINGLE ROPE LADDER WITH STICKS
A single rope ladder is made by opening the lays of the rope and inserting cross sticks each about 8 inches long as shown with an equal amount protruding on either side of the rope. These cross sticks must be secured to the rope, and it is necessary to lash the rope above and below the sticks. The distance between the sticks should be from 15” to 18”.
To climb a rope ladder, hold the rope with both hands, bend the knees, and draw both feet up together and lay them with even pressure on the next cross sticks. When the footing is secure, raise the hands and continue the action, which is somewhat like that of a toy monkey on a string.
Bush single-rope ladders have the advantage that they can be used easily by people who may not be able to climb by ordinary means. They provide an easy means of ascending and descending a cliff or a lookout.
SINGLE ROPE LADDER WITH CHOCKS
This type of ladder has the advantage of being portable and quickly made. The chocks of hardwood are about 6” diameter and 2” deep, and are suitably bored to take the diameter of the rope. Splice an eye at the top end and seize in a thimble to lash the rope head securely. To secure the chocks, put two strands of seizing between the strands of the rope and then work a wall knot.
ROPE BRIDGE
Two ropes are spun. They must be very strong and thoroughly tested. They are anchored to either side of the river, either to convenient trees or to anchors as shown.
When these ropes have been stretched taut, light ‘A’ frames are made. The number required depends upon the length of the decking.
The first ‘A’ frame is hooked onto the ropes and pushed forward with a stick. The footing, a straight sapling, is dropped down onto the crotch of the frame, and the bridge builder walks out along this and hooks on the next ‘A’ frame, pushing it out the required distance, and repeats the process till the far bank is reached. Rope bridges must not be overloaded–one at a time is a safe rule. If Monkey vines, Lianas, or Lawyer vines (Calamus) are available instead of bush-made rope, use any of these. They are much stronger and will make a bridge strong enough for 4 to 6 men at a time.
TO MEASURE THE DISTANCE ACROSS A RIVER OR GORGE
Select a mark on the opposite bank ‘A,’ and then drive a stake on the near bank ‘B.’ Walk at right angles for a known number of paces and put in another marker stake ‘C,’ and continue an equal number of paces and put in a third marker ‘D.’
Turn at right angles away from the river, and keep moving back until the centre marker stake and the mark on the other side of the river are in line ‘E.’
Measure the distance from the third or last marker peg ‘D’ to this point ‘E,’ and this distance will equal the distance across the river.
TO GET A ROPE ACROSS A NARROW DEEP RIVER
Fasten a stout stick to the end of the rope. The rope must be in the middle of the stick. Select a forked tree on the opposite bank. Throw the free end of the coiled line with the stick across the river to the tree.
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