At Trenton the train
set him on board a steamer which took him to Philadelphia where he
smelt other varieties of town life; then again by boat to Chester,
and by train to Havre de Grace; by boat to Baltimore and thence by
rail to Washington. This was the journey he remembered. The actual
journey may have been quite different, but the actual journey has
no interest for education. The memory was all that mattered; and
what struck him most, to remain fresh in his mind all his lifetime,
was the sudden change that came over the world on entering a slave
State. He took education politically. The mere raggedness of
outline could not have seemed wholly new, for even Boston had its
ragged edges, and the town of Quincy was far from being a vision of
neatness or good-repair; in truth, he had never seen a finished
landscape; but Maryland was raggedness of a new kind. The railway,
about the size and character of a modern tram, rambled through
unfenced fields and woods, or through village streets, among a
haphazard variety of pigs, cows, and negro babies, who might all
have used the cabins for pens and styes, had the Southern pig
required styes, but who never showed a sign of care. This was the
boy's impression of what slavery caused, and, for him, was all it
taught. Coming down in the early morning from his bedroom in his
grandmother's house - still called the Adams Building in - F Street
and venturing outside into the air reeking with the thick odor of
the catalpa trees, he found himself on an earth-road, or village
street, with wheel-tracks meandering from the colonnade of the
Treasury hard by, to the white marble columns and fronts of the
Post Office and Patent Office which faced each other in the
distance, like white Greek temples in the abandoned gravel-pits of
a deserted Syrian city. Here and there low wooden houses were
scattered along the streets, as in other Southern villages, but he
was chiefly attracted by an unfinished square marble shaft,
half-a-mile below, and he walked down to inspect it before
breakfast. His aunt drily remarked that, at this rate, he would
soon get through all the sights; but she could not guess - having
lived always in Washington - how little the sights of Washington
had to do with its interest.
The boy could not have told her; he was nowhere near
an understanding of himself. The more he was educated, the less he
understood. Slavery struck him in the face; it was a nightmare; a
horror; a crime; the sum of all wickedness! Contact made it only
more repulsive. He wanted to escape, like the negroes, to free
soil. Slave States were dirty, unkempt, poverty-stricken, ignorant,
vicious! He had not a thought but repulsion for it; and yet the
picture had another side. The May sunshine and shadow had something
to do with it; the thickness of foliage and the heavy smells had
more; the sense of atmosphere, almost new, had perhaps as much
again; and the brooding indolence of a warm climate and a negro
population hung in the atmosphere heavier than the catalpas. The
impression was not simple, but the boy liked it: distinctly it
remained on his mind as an attraction, almost obscuring Quincy
itself. The want of barriers, of pavements, of forms; the
looseness, the laziness; the indolent Southern drawl; the pigs in
the streets; the negro babies and their mothers with bandanas; the
freedom, openness, swagger, of nature and man, soothed his Johnson
blood. Most boys would have felt it in the same way, but with him
the feeling caught on to an inheritance. The softness of his gentle
old grandmother as she lay in bed and chatted with him, did not
come from Boston. His aunt was anything rather than Bostonian. He
did not wholly come from Boston himself. Though Washington belonged
to a different world, and the two worlds could not live together,
he was not sure that he enjoyed the Boston world most. Even at
twelve years old he could see his own nature no more clearly than
he would at twelve hundred, if by accident he should happen to live
so long.
His father took him to the Capitol and on the floor
of the Senate, which then, and long afterwards, until the era of
tourists, was freely open to visitors. The old Senate Chamber
resembled a pleasant political club. Standing behind the
Vice-President's chair, which is now the Chief Justice's, the boy
was presented to some of the men whose names were great in their
day, and as familiar to him as his own. Clay and Webster and
Calhoun were there still, but with them a Free Soil candidate for
the Vice-Presidency had little to do; what struck boys most was
their type. Senators were a species; they all wore an air, as they
wore a blue dress coat or brass buttons; they were Roman. The type
of Senator in 1850 was rather charming at its best, and the Senate,
when in good temper, was an agreeable body, numbering only some
sixty members, and affecting the airs of courtesy. Its vice was not
so much a vice of manners or temper as of attitude.
1 comment