There was all the
wide valley, sweeping down and spreading away on all sides from the
weed grown ramparts, and bounded afar by mountains, which lay
asleep in the sun, with thin mists and silvery clouds floating
about their heads by way of morning dreams.
"It lacks still two hours of noon," said the sculptor to his
friend, as they stood under the arch of the gateway, waiting for
their passports to be examined; "will you come with me to see some
admirable frescos by Perugino? There is a hall in the Exchange, of
no great magnitude, but covered with what must have been—at the
time it was painted—such magnificence and beauty as the world had
not elsewhere to show."
"It depresses me to look at old frescos," responded the Count;
"it is a pain, yet not enough of a pain to answer as a
penance."
"Will you look at some pictures by Fra Angelico in the Church of
San Domenico?" asked Kenyon; "they are full of religious sincerity,
When one studies them faithfully, it is like holding a conversation
about heavenly things with a tender and devout-minded man."
"You have shown me some of Fra Angelico's pictures, I remember,"
answered Donatello; "his angels look as if they had never taken a
flight out of heaven; and his saints seem to have been born saints,
and always to have lived so. Young maidens, and all innocent
persons, I doubt not, may find great delight and profit in looking
at such holy pictures. But they are not for me."
"Your criticism, I fancy, has great moral depth," replied
Kenyon; "and I see in it the reason why Hilda so highly appreciates
Fra Angelico's pictures. Well; we will let all such matters pass
for to-day, and stroll about this fine old city till noon."
They wandered to and fro, accordingly, and lost themselves among
the strange, precipitate passages, which, in Perugia, are called
streets, Some of them are like caverns, being arched all over, and
plunging down abruptly towards an unknown darkness; which, when you
have fathomed its depths, admits you to a daylight that you
scarcely hoped to behold again. Here they met shabby men, and the
careworn wives and mothers of the people, some of whom guided
children in leading strings through those dim and antique
thoroughfares, where a hundred generations had passed before the
little feet of to-day began to tread them. Thence they climbed
upward again, and came to the level plateau, on the summit of the
hill, where are situated the grand piazza and the principal public
edifices.
It happened to be market day in Perugia. The great square,
therefore, presented a far more vivacious spectacle than would have
been witnessed in it at any other time of the week, though not so
lively as to overcome the gray solemnity of the architectural
portion of the scene. In the shadow of the cathedral and other old
Gothic structures—seeking shelter from the sunshine that fell
across the rest of the piazza—was a crowd of people, engaged as
buyers or sellers in the petty traffic of a country fair. Dealers
had erected booths and stalls on the pavement, and overspread them
with scanty awnings, beneath which they stood, vociferously crying
their merchandise; such as shoes, hats and caps, yarn stockings,
cheap jewelry and cutlery, books, chiefly little volumes of a
religious Character, and a few French novels; toys, tinware, old
iron, cloth, rosaries of beads, crucifixes, cakes, biscuits,
sugar-plums, and innumerable little odds and ends, which we see no
object in advertising. Baskets of grapes, figs, and pears stood on
the ground. Donkeys, bearing panniers stuffed out with kitchen
vegetables, and requiring an ample roadway, roughly shouldered
aside the throng.
Crowded as the square was, a juggler found room to spread out a
white cloth upon the pavement, and cover it with cups, plates,
balls, cards, w the whole material of his magic, in
short,—wherewith he proceeded to work miracles under the noonday
sun. An organ grinder at one point, and a clarion and a flute at
another, accomplished what their could towards filling the wide
space with tuneful noise, Their small uproar, however, was nearly
drowned by the multitudinous voices of the people, bargaining,
quarrelling, laughing, and babbling copiously at random; for the
briskness of the mountain atmosphere, or some other cause, made
everybody so loquacious, that more words were wasted in Perugia on
this one market day, than the noisiest piazza of Rome would utter
in a month.
Through all this petty tumult, which kept beguiling one's eyes
and upper strata of thought, it was delightful to catch glimpses of
the grand old architecture that stood around the square. The life
of the flitting moment, existing in the antique shell of an age
gone by, has a fascination which we do not find in either the past
or present, taken by themselves. It might seem irreverent to make
the gray cathedral and the tall, time-worn palaces echo back the
exuberant vociferation of the market; but they did so, and caused
the sound to assume a kind of poetic rhythm, and themselves looked
only the more majestic for their condescension.
On one side, there was an immense edifice devoted to public
purposes, with an antique gallery, and a range of arched and
stone-mullioned windows, running along its front; and by way of
entrance it had a central Gothic arch, elaborately wreathed around
with sculptured semicircles, within which the spectator was aware
of a stately and impressive gloom. Though merely the municipal
council-house and exchange of a decayed country town, this
structure was worthy to have held in one portion of it the
parliament hall of a nation, and in the other, the state apartments
of its ruler. On another side of the square rose the mediaeval
front of the cathedral, where the imagination of a Gothic architect
had long ago flowered out indestructibly, in the first place, a
grand design, and then covering it with such abundant detail of
ornament, that the magnitude of the work seemed less a miracle than
its minuteness. You would suppose that he must have softened the
stone into wax, until his most delicate fancies were modelled in
the pliant material, and then had hardened it into stone again. The
whole was a vast, black-letter page of the richest and quaintest
poetry. In fit keeping with all this old magnificence was a great
marble fountain, where again the Gothic imagination showed its
overflow and gratuity of device in the manifold sculptures which it
lavished as freely as the water did its shifting shapes.
Besides the two venerable structures which we have described,
there were lofty palaces, perhaps of as old a date, rising story
above Story, and adorned with balconies, whence, hundreds of years
ago, the princely occupants had been accustomed to gaze down at the
sports, business, and popular assemblages of the piazza. And,
beyond all question, they thus witnessed the erection of a bronze
statue, which, three centuries since, was placed on the pedestal
that it still occupies.
"I never come to Perugia," said Kenyon, "without spending as
much time as I can spare in studying yonder statue of Pope Julius
the Third. Those sculptors of the Middle Age have fitter lessons
for the professors of my art than we can find in the Grecian
masterpieces. They belong to our Christian civilization; and, being
earnest works, they always express something which we do not get
from the antique. Will you look at it?"
"Willingly," replied the Count, "for I see, even so far off,
that the statue is bestowing a benediction, and there is a feeling
in my heart that I may be permitted to share it."
Remembering the similar idea which Miriam a short time before
had expressed, the sculptor smiled hopefully at the coincidence.
They made their way through the throng of the market place, and
approached close to the iron railing that protected the pedestal of
the statue.
It was the figure of a pope, arrayed in his pontifical robes,
and crowned with the tiara. He sat in a bronze chair, elevated high
above the pavement, and seemed to take kindly yet authoritative
cognizance of the busy scene which was at that moment passing
before his eye. His right hand was raised and spread abroad, as if
in the act of shedding forth a benediction, which every man—so
broad, so wise, and so serenely affectionate was the bronze pope's
regard—might hope to feel quietly descending upon the need, or the
distress, that he had closest at his heart. The statue had life and
observation in it, as well as patriarchal majesty. An imaginative
spectator could not but be impressed with the idea that this
benignly awful representative of divine and human authority might
rise from his brazen chair, should any great public exigency demand
his interposition, and encourage or restrain the people by his
gesture, or even by prophetic utterances worthy of so grand a
presence.
And in the long, calm intervals, amid the quiet lapse of ages,
the pontiff watched the daily turmoil around his seat, listening
with majestic patience to the market cries, and all the petty
uproar that awoke the echoes of the stately old piazza. He was the
enduring friend of these men, and of their forefathers and
children, the familiar face of generations.
"The pope's blessing, methinks, has fallen upon you," observed
the sculptor, looking at his friend.
In truth, Donatello's countenance indicated a healthier spirit
than while he was brooding in his melancholy tower. The change of
scene, the breaking up of custom, the fresh flow of incidents, the
sense of being homeless, and therefore free, had done something for
our poor Faun; these circumstances had at least promoted a
reaction, which might else have been slower in its progress. Then,
no doubt, the bright day, the gay spectacle of the market place,
and the sympathetic exhilaration of so many people's cheerfulness,
had each their suitable effect on a temper naturally prone to be
glad.
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