The Old Road Read Online
| PAGE | ||
|
ON THE ROAD AND THE FASCINATION OF ANTIQUITY |
3 | |
|
THE THEORY OF THE OLD ROAD |
||
|
That such and such Causes determined the Track of the Old Road, and that it ran from Winchester to Canterbury |
15 | |
|
The Causes of the Development of Winchester and Canterbury, and of their Position as Termini of the Old Road |
29 | |
|
The Causes of the Preservation of the Old Road; its General Character, and our Application of this in our Method of recovering it |
72 | |
|
THE EXPLORATION OF THE ROAD |
||
| Winchester to Alton | 117 | |
| Alton to Shalford | 147 | |
| Shalford to Dorking Pits | 169 | |
| Boxhill to Titsey | 188 | |
| Titsey to Wrotham | 214 | |
| Wrotham to Boxley | 231 | |
| Boxley to Canterbury | 256 | |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| WINCHESTER, | Photogravure frontispiece |
| Facing page | |
|
A ROAD MOST TYPICAL OF ALL THAT ROADS HAVE BEEN FOR US, |
8 |
|
THESE PITS WHICH UNCOVER THE CHALK BARE FOR US, |
26 |
|
GLIMPSES OF THE ITCHEN AWAY BEHIND US, |
60 |
|
THE CHURCH OF SHERE, |
110 |
|
THE HEAD-WATERS WHICH FORM THE ITCHEN, THE ALRE AND OTHER STREAMS, |
128 |
|
ROUGH, AND MARKED ONLY BY RUTS IN THE WINTER SOIL, AND BY ITS RANK OF SECULAR TREES, |
162 |
|
THAT CURIOUS PLATFORM WHICH SUPPORTS IN SUCH AN IMMENSE ANTIQUITY OF CONSECRATION THE RUINS OF ST. CATHERINE'S CHAPEL, |
163 |
|
A PLACE OF CLOSE DARK AND VARIOUS TREES, FULL OF A DAMP AIR, AND GLOOMY WITH STANDING WATER-RUTS, |
174 |
|
THAT SPLENDID AVENUE OF LIMES, |
176 |
|
IT STOOD OUT LIKE A CAPE ALONG OUR COASTING JOURNEY, OUR NAVIGATION OF THE LINE OF THE DOWNS, |
182 |
|
AND BEYOND THE WHOLE OF THE WEALD, |
200 |
|
THE MOST IMPORTANT OF THE RIVERS IT MEETS UPON ITS COURSE, THE MEDWAY, |
238 |
|
ROCHESTER, |
252 |
|
THE SHEEP IN THE NARROW LANES, OR THE LEANING CONES OF THE HOP-KILNS AGAINST THE SKY, |
260 |
|
THE PLOUGHLANDS UNDER ORCHARDS: ALL THE KENTISH WEALD, |
268 |
|
SUCH A MAGIC OF GREAT HEIGHT AND DARKNESS, |
278 |
|
MAP |
at end |
ON THE ROAD AND THE
FASCINATION OF ANTIQUITY
ON THE ROAD AND THE FASCINATION OF ANTIQUITY
There are primal things which move us. Fire has the character of a free companion that has travelled with us from the first exile; only to see a fire, whether he need it or no, comforts every man. Again, to hear two voices outside at night after a silence, even in crowded cities, transforms the mind. A Roof also, large and mothering, satisfies us here in the north much more than modern necessity can explain; so we built in beginning: the only way to carry off our rains and to bear the weight of our winter snows. A Tower far off arrests a man's eye always: it is more than a break in the sky-line; it is an enemy's watch or the rallying of a defence to whose aid we are summoned. Nor are these emotions a memory or a reversion only as one crude theory might pretend; we craved these things—the camp, the refuge, the sentinels in the dark, the hearth—before we made them; they are part of our human manner, and when this civilisation has perished they will reappear.
Of these primal things the least obvious but the most important is The Road. It does not strike the sense as do those others I have mentioned; we are slow to feel its influence. We take it so much for granted that its original meaning escapes us. Men, indeed, whose pleasure it is perpetually to explore even their own country on foot, and to whom its every phase of climate is delightful, receive, somewhat tardily, the spirit of The Road. They feel a meaning in it; it grows to suggest the towns upon it, it explains its own vagaries, and it gives a unity to all that has arisen along its way. But for the mass The Road is silent; it is the humblest and the most subtle, but, as I have said, the greatest and the most original of the spells which we inherit from the earliest pioneers of our race. It was the most imperative and the first of our necessities. It is older than building and than wells; before we were quite men we knew it, for the animals still have it to-day; they seek their food and their drinking-places, and, as I believe, their assemblies, by known tracks which they have made.
It is easy to re-create in oneself to-day a sense of what the Road means to living things on land: it is easy to do it even in this crowded country. Walk, for instance, on the neglected Pennines along the watershed of England, from Malham Tarn, say, to Ribblehead, or from Kirkby Stephen up along the crest to Crossfell and so to Alston, and you will learn at once what follows on an untouched soil from the absence of a track—of a guide. One ravine out of the many radiating from a summit will lead to the one valley you seek; take another stream and you are condemned at last to traverse mountains to repair the error. In a fog or at night, if one has not such a path, there is nothing to help one but the lay of the snow or the trend of the vegetation under the last gale. In climbing, the summit is nearly always hidden, and nothing but a track will save you from false journeys. In descent it alone will save you a precipice or an unfordable stream. It knows upon which side an obstacle can be passed, where there is firm land in a morass, and where there is the best going; sand or rock—dry soil. It will find what nothing but long experiment can find for an individual traveller, the precise point in a saddle or neck where approach is easiest from either side, and everywhere the Road, especially the very early Road, is wiser than it seems to be. It reminds one of those old farmers who do not read, and whom we think at first unreasoning in their curious and devious ways, but whom, if we watch closely, we shall find doing all their work just in that way which infinite time has taught the country-side.
Thus I know an old man in Sussex who never speaks but to say that everything needs rest. Land, he says, certainly; and also he believes iron and wood. For this he is still ridiculed, but what else are the most learned saying now? And I know a path in the Vosges which, to the annoyance of those who travel by it, is irrational: it turns sharp northward and follows under a high ridge, instead of directly crossing it: some therefore leave it and lose all their pains, for, if you will trust to that path you will find it crosses the ridge at last at the only place where, on the far side, it is passable at all; all before and beyond that point is a little ledge of precipice which no one could go down.
More than rivers and more than mountain chains, roads have moulded the political groups of men. The Alps with a mule-track across them are less of a barrier than fifteen miles of forest or rough land separating one from that track. Religions, which are the principal formers of mankind, have followed the roads only, leaping from city to city and leaving the 'Pagani,' in the villages off the road, to a later influence. Consider the series Jerusalem, Antioch, Ephesus, Athens, and the Appian Way: Rome, all the tradition of the Tuscan highway, the Ligurian coast, Marseilles and Lyons. I have read in some man's book that the last link of that chain was the river Rhone; but this man can never have tried to pull a boat upon the Rhone up-stream.
1 comment